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The Portuguese Connection between Indonesia, Goa and Republic of Sao Tome and Principe

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SAO TOME: Although Indonesia, Goa and Republic of Sao Tome are separated by several thousand miles and water bodies, these countries still share a ‘Portuguese’ connection between them. Indonesia, the Democratic Republic of São Tome and Principe (island nation off the Gulf of Guinea, West Africa), and the Indian state of Goa were Portuguese colonies in the past.

The three countries were ruled by the Portuguese rulers at almost the same time. The rulers gained dominance in Sao Tome in 1470, Parts of Indonesia in 1511 and Goa in 1511. Interestingly, all these countries got independence around the same time. Sao Tome gained independence in 1975, East Timor in 1975, and Goa in 1961.

The Portuguese were successful in Asia as they encountered little resistance from the Asian side. With their superior naval strength, they operated out of a network of fortified trading ports from Maluku to Malaka, Macau, Goa, the Persian Gulf, Mozambique, Angola, and Sao Tome.

While the Portuguese ruled Goa, their own country was ruled by Spain from the late 16th century for 60 years.

Portuguese invasion and its effects

The Portuguese entered Indonesia in 1511 thus becoming the first Europeans to do so. They arrived in Timor in around 1512 and 1522 and officially annexed the area as a Portuguese territory with the appointment of a Governor for Timor and Solor in 1702. 

The Portuguese continued to rule the country till the 1800s after getting ousted by the Dutch. However, they held on to East Timor until the latter declared freedom from Portuguese rule in 1975, thereby giving the Portuguese a 450-year reign in Indonesia.

Indonesia suffered serious disruption of trading routes and dislocation of commercial activities during the Portuguese reign.

On the other hand, Sao Tome became a hoarding place for the slave trade during the Portuguese reign. It suffered from social unrest leading to economic instability throughout the 19th and 20th centuries.

Despite the abolition of slavery in the Portuguese colonies in 1876, Sao Tome continued to be subjected to forced paid labor, which led to deep dissatisfaction with the working conditions. The social upheaval caused by the native Forres heralded the freedom struggle for Sao Tome in 1975.

Goa, also shared a painful past as it underwent a religious conversion program by the colonizers on the native Goan population. Goa was taken over in 1511. The Portuguese rule in Goa lasted 450 years until they were driven away by the Indian army in 1961. This led to widespread misery, exploitation, deaths, and destruction.

Why did the Portuguese colonize?

The main motives behind the Asian voyage of Portuguese rulers were the search for spices and to spread the ideas of Christianity that were the guiding factors for Portuguese invasions in Goa and the East Indies. 

In Indonesia, the Portuguese were enamored by the exotic spices of the Maluku Islands, also known as the “Spice Islands”. In these islands, spices like nutmeg and cloves can still be found in abundance.

Cloves and powdered nutmeg. Photo Credit: Pixabay

As the first Europeans to arrive in the East Indies, the Portuguese were keen to dominate the sources of spices by curtailing the network of Muslim traders. The Portuguese were initially not successful as they got entangled in hostilities among indigenous kingdoms on Java. But they soon learned to work with the local traders and became successful in Moluccas, Ternate, Ambon, and Solor.

Author Merle Severy has addressed this in National Geographic: “After the discoverers became conquerors, they learned it was more profitable to regulate Muslim trade and tax it. The Portuguese took their biggest profit from inter-Asian trade—selling Arabia’s stallions to warring Indian princes, carrying cotton textiles around the Bay of Bengal and Timor’s sandalwood to China, and bartering China’s silk for Japan’s silver.”

In the case of Goa, when Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama discovered a direct sea route from Europe to Asia in 1497, it enabled the Portuguese to bypass the Middle East land and sea trade routes, which were controlled by Islamic states.

Goa was already the heart of the Portuguese Empire in the East with a huge spice trade. Within Asia, spices and other goods were exchanged for gold, silver, textiles, and rice. Portuguese ships plied their trade goods between Goa and Lisbon, Goa and Macao, and Goa and Nagasaki.

Basilica of Bom Jesus, a Portuguese architecture in Goa. Photo Credit: Pixabay

The Portuguese simply chanced upon the inhabited islands of Sao Tome and Principe in 1470. The Portuguese had already colonized Madeira (1420), the Azores (1439), and Cape Verde (1462) in the Atlantic off the coast of West Africa. These islands were very useful strategic points for Portuguese ships that crisscrossed their empire.

But they were keen for a base even closer to the lucrative trade markets in the southern part of West Africa. The two uninhabited islands of São Tomé and Principe became ideal candidates for such a base. After settlements, the Portuguese indulged in the slave trade and human exploitation for running the sugar and cacao plantations in Sao Tome and Principe.

The Portuguese were not just motivated by trade and the spread of Christian values. They were conscious of their strong military strength, highly skilled exploratory nature, and supreme maritime capabilities. These advantages enabled them to build many trading posts across the globe. This realization later led them to control trading routes, build new political structures and establish empires.

The Portuguese legacy

Though the number of years of Portuguese reign in all the three places has been more or less the same. But, its impact on each of them has been varied.

Portuguese influence has been most pronounced in the islands of Sao Tome and Principe even today. The entire population of Sao Tome speaks Portuguese and upto 95% of the population is Christian. The architecture found in the country is predominantly Portuguese.

One can find the city dotted with villas of colonial heritage hugging the city coastlines. The economy and society of SaoTome is even today closely intertwined with Portugal. People of  Sao Tome study and seek medical treatment in Portugal.

Sao Tome. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Goa has certainly been influenced by Portuguese culture –art, architecture, culture, food, ethnicity, music, literature, etc. Goa has diligently maintained the 17th-century Portuguese mansions, heritage houses, and churches. However, just 25% of the Goan population is Christian.

A house with a hint of Portuguese architecture in Goa. Photo Credit: Pixabay

It is important to note that Goa has been a multicultural society before and after Portuguese rule. Interestingly, till now, the older generation in Goa speaks Portuguese.

In the case of Indonesia, one might say that the height of Portuguese missionary activities occurred only in the latter half of the 16th century. By that time, the Portuguese had somewhat consolidated their position.

Consequently, their East Asian interest was shifting to their existing colonies in India, Sri Lanka, Japan, Macau, and China. Their sugar trade in Brazil and the Atlantic slave trade which extended up to Sao Tome, in turn further distracted their efforts in the East Indies. By 1575, the Portuguese presence in the East Indies was reduced to Solor, Flores, and Timor ( Portuguese Timor). 

Indonesian church. Photo Credit: Pixabay

Therefore, the Portuguese influence on Indonesian culture has been underwhelming, mostly limited to the romantic keroncong guitar ballads, some Indonesian words, and family names in Eastern Indonesia with Portuguese sounds. Christian influence too has been limited and restricted to communities in some Eastern islands.

Looking back at the exploratory voyages and subsequent conquests of the Portuguese, it would appear that globalization began with them. After 500 years of Portuguese rule, the Christian communities in all three places have continued to exist till today and contributed to a sense of shared interest with modern Portugal.

Also Read: The Enthralling Southern Trail of Sao Tome

Einstein’s Theory Proven Right in Sao Tome and Principe

SAO TOME AND PRINCIPE: The remote São Tomé and Príncipe on the West coast of Africa has much more than natural beauty, exotic flora and fauna, sun-kissed beaches, and dark chocolates. It is connected to Albert Einstein in a way most people might not imagine. Roca Sundy plantation in Principe island is a part of world scientific history.

Roca Sundy’s Einstein connection

Roca Sundy’s place in history was to take an unexpected turn when it became linked to one of the most important scientific discoveries of the last century.

It was in these coffee plantations north of the equator on the lovely island of Principe, where in May 1919, Albert Einstein’s General Theory of Relativity was proven here by Sir Arthur Eddington, an English astronomer, and physicist, while observing a solar eclipse. His conclusions were based on the curvature of light rays, or the deflection of light, which proved that space and time were not absolute, as Newton had claimed.

This happened on 29th May 1919. When Albert Einstein published his Theory of Relativity in 1915 in Germany, he revolutionized the framework of knowledge of physics, overthrew existing notions of space and time, and upset Newton’s theory of gravitation.

Conflicting theories: Einstein vs Newton

One of the key tenets of general relativity is that space is not static.  The motions of objects can change the structure of space.

Einstein put forward a different view of gravity as opposed to that propounded by Sir Isaac Newton. As per Newton’s theory, all objects exert a force that attracts other objects. That universal law of gravitation predicts the motion of planets as well as objects on Earth. This law is being applied in space technology.

But Einstein’s theory proves that Newton’s view of gravity was unable to predict all things, like Mercury’s peculiar orbit around the sun. According to astrophysicists, the orbits of planets shift over time, and Mercury’s orbit shifted faster than Newton predicted.

Einstein propounded that instead of exerting an attractive force, each object curves the fabric of space and time around them, forming a sort of inner well that other objects, including beams of light, fall into.

He gave the analogy of the sun as a bowling ball on a mattress, which creates a depression that attracts the planets closer. His theory did show that when the sun curves, it distorts nearby objects like Mercury.

Arthur Stanley Eddington, an astronomer interested in Einstein’s theory decided to prove it. According to him, the best way to prove was to observe and detect deflections or bending of light that the gravity of the Sun might cause during a total solar eclipse. 

The total solar eclipse occurred 100 years ago in 1919. Eddington traveled to the island of Príncipe which was close to the equator to find the perfect location from which to view a predicted eclipse.

He expected to capture starlight being shifted by the sun’s gravity, thus proving Einstein’s model of physics over Newton’s. The eclipse was necessary as it would be the only time he could view the light unobscured from the sun. He found the perfect spot in Roça Sundy, Principe Island.

On May 29, 1919, during a total solar eclipse, Einstein’s theory of general relativity was confirmed to be correct.

The solar eclipse allowed the two teams of British astronomers, one on the island of Principe – Arthur Eddington and Andrew Crommelin in Sobral, Brazil– to prove the gravitational curving of light theory, proposed in 1915 by Albert Einstein.

The island of Principe in Sao Tome and the Brazilian locality of Sobral marked the centenary of the proof of Einstein’s Theory of Relativity on 29 May 2019.

In Sao Tome and Principe, during the centenary celebrations, the Sundy Science Space Centre was inaugurated at the very same Roça Sundy plantation where the eclipse was viewed in 1919. 

Today the Space Centre stands as a recognition of the scientific, cultural, and historical heritage of the island of Principe. However, the plantation itself lies in a derelict condition.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Three books commemorate the centenary: No Shadow of a Doubt by physicist Daniel Kennefick, Gravity’s Century by science journalist Ron Cowen, and science historian Matthew Stanley’s Einstein’s War.

Also Read: The Enthralling Southern Trail of Sao Tome

SaoTome Philately Honors Indian Personalities and Landmarks with Special Postage Stamps

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SAO TOME AND PRINCIPE. Sao Tome: The Portuguese colony of Sao Tome and Principe gained independence on July 12, 1975. Since then, as a free Democratic Republic of Sao Tome and Principe, the island nation has been issuing postage stamps in large numbers on a variety of themes and countries.

The first postage stamps made their appearance in Sao Tome and Principe in 1869. The stamps were basically colonial types that were issued by Portugal for its colonies. 

The country has also been issuing topically oriented, colourful and interesting stamps primarily for stamp collectors.

The themes of the stamps have a mind boggling range – flora & fauna, butterflies to prehistoric creatures, space to battlefields, natural wonders to music, cultures and customs to Japanese nude paintings, world personalities, milestones and commemorative events.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


The bilateral engagement between India and Sao Tome is growing. However, there is only a small Indian community (less than 30) in Sao Tome and Principe. Besides, India’s resident Mission was opened just a year ago. And yet, far away Sao Tome has issued more than 50 stamps in celebration of India’s culture, personalities, achievements and milestones.

It is no surprise that a universal personality like Mahatma Gandhi figures prominently in several special stamps issued by Sao Tome.

A stamp on the occasion of International Year of Peace was issued in 1986 featuring Mahatma Gandhi.

The international peace day stamp featuring Mahatma Gandhi. Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


On the occasion of 60th and 70th anniversary of India’s Independence, Sao Tome issued four stamps – one each on Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, Gautama Buddha and Indira Gandhi.

Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately

In 2008, four special stamps were issued under the International Year of Reconciliation, which featured Mother Teresa and Mahatma Gandhi along with Pope and Dalai Lama.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


Gandhi was also included under their ‘Humanities Series’, along with Mother Teresa and other world figures.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


It is clear that Sao Tome holds Mother Teresa in high esteem. In 2019, Saotome issued a special stamp to commomerate the 40th anniversary of Mother Teresa receiving the Nobel Peace Prize.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


A very interesting stamp series was issued in 2014 that portrayed Jawaharlal Nehru with other important world personalities like Mother Teressa, Albert Einstein, Mahatma Gandhi and Queen Elizabeth in separate stamp issues.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


The life and achievements of India’s first women Prime Minister, Mrs. Indira Gandhi have also been honoured by Saotome in their 2007 issues.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately

However, out of all the stamps, one of the most heart-warming commemorative stamp series issued was the one recognizing the success of the Indian space program, especially INSAT 1C.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


Another stamp glorified the achievements of noted Indian space scientists, including former President Abdul Kalam, Mahatma Gandhi, Vikram Sarabhai and Rakesh Sharma (Chandrayaan 2009).

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


A 2019 stamp was dedicated to the Nobel Prize winners of 2019, which included Abhijit Banerjee.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


Another 2019 stamp highlighted the achievements of Chess Grandmasters which included Indian-origin Grandmaster Anish Giri.  Anish Giri is a Russian born Dutch Grandmaster with Indian roots.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


There is also a stamp commemorating the arrival of Vasco da Gama in Vasco and the Portuguese-Goa connection. Vasco da Gama often shortened to Vasco, is a city in Goa named after the Portuguese explorer.

Both Goa and Sao Tome being former Portuguese colonies, it was expected that Sao Tome Philately would underline that connection.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately

It is also gratifying to note Sao Tome published two iconic stamps in 2013 to celebrate the success of Bollywood cinema featuring Bollywood megastar Amitabh Bachchan, Veteran singer Asha Bhosle, Indian nightingale Lata Mangeshkar, Bollywood actor Aamir Khan, and some actresses.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately
 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately

The stamp series on Indian Railways is also significant as it is an acknowledgement of its contribution to Indian economy.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately

But two special stamps might evoke immense interest among most Indian readers.

Perhaps an indication of international interest in the Indian festivals of Navratri and Durga Puja, Sao Tome issued a special stamp on 21 May, 2015 on Goddess Durga.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately


The limited edition collectors’ stamp commemorates both Navratri and Durga Puja. The stamp depicts Goddess  Durga sitting atop a tiger and includes special features such as a velvet effect and Swarovski crystals. Only 1,500 copies of this odd shaped miniature sheet with a round stamp, were issued.

The stamp about the commemoration of 390th Anniversary of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj issued in 2011. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj was the founder of the Maratha Empire in western India. He is considered to be one of the greatest warriors of India.

 Photo Credit: SaoTome Dept of Philately

It is inexplicable that several obvious themes and ideals that exemplify India’s soft power (Yoga, Ramayana, Diwali, Tea medicine, etc) have been overlooked.

But Sao Tome Philately has done well to publish some iconic stamp series that does capture important milestones and achievements of Independent India.

Also Read: The Ugly Secret of Sao Tome’s Chocolate Industry

The Ugly Secret of Sao Tome’s Chocolate Industry

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SAO TOME AND PRINCIPE: The islands of Republic of Saotome and Principe, off the Gulf of Guinea, are as much known for high-quality chocolates as for their boundless natural beauty. At one point, it was the world’s largest cacao producer and aptly named the ‘chocolate islands’.

Cacao pods. Photo Credit: Pixabay

Even today, Sao Tome is replete with cacao farms. Due to its rich volcanic soil and location, Príncipe island is better suited for the cultivation of premium cacao. Most of the cacao of the world is grown in the strip of land between the tropics & Príncipe island.

The freshly picked cacao beans. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The cacao economy of Sao Tome

Cacao is one of the important economic drivers of Sao Tome’s economy. The dark chocolate bars from Sao Tomé and Principe are a delight for the dark chocolate lovers.

Over 70% of Sao Tome’s chocolates have a complex flavor, rich in roasted cacao and with plenty of refreshing fruity flavors including apricot, red fruits, citrus, and even a hint of tea.

To delve a little into history, after the Portuguese colonized these uninhabited islands in the 1500s, they soon came under pressure to make it profitable. Their administrators initially managed to create sugar plantations. Without a native population, they brought slaves from the African mainland, including Angola and Congo to work in newly created sugar ‘fazendas’ (farms).

Cacao trees in Sao Tome. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The history of cacao in the islands

From the middle of the 16th century, Sao Tome became Africa’s largest producer of sugar. This predominance did not last long as the slave labor grew too restless, even violent, due to poor working conditions. The growing competition with Brazil and other regions was also an important factor. Due to this, by the mid-1500s, Sao Tome’s sugar production declined.

Portuguese administrators continued searching for activities that would generate income. In 1780 they introduced coffee production. Somewhere around the early 1800s, these lovely African islands became the first to import cacao from Brazil. As demand for cacao increased in the late 1800s, Portuguese investors bought farmland to grow cacao using the same slaves. In 1824, cacao was successfully grown on Príncipe.

Cacao was grown in ‘rocas’ or estates, which operated as self-sufficient units with all production facilities. Soon Sao Tome and Principe gained fame as the principal supplier of cacao for Great Britain’s three largest chocolate makers at that time – J.S. Fry and Sons, Rowntree, and the Cadbury Brothers. For several years, this tiny Portuguese colony was the world’s most important source of chocolate’s basic ingredient.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

However, just as with sugar plantations, the owners could not sustain and control the slave labor on the cacao farms. When slavery was abolished within all Portuguese colonies in 1869, the cacao industry faltered due to a lack of farm labor.

Slavery in the chocolate industry

But Sao Tome’s dark chocolate hid a dark and ugly secret. Its cacao industry thrived only because of men and women toiling on humid plantations, who were subject to slave-like conditions.

Quite oblivious to the presence of such inhuman working conditions, European and British chocolate makers continued importing cacao beans from the islands.

But soon the stories of slave-like conditions became known to everyone in Europe. It was said that in 1901, William Cadbury saw an advertisement listing building, equipment, and some hundred workers as assets of a São Tomé plantation that was for sale. Soon, European chocolate producers imposed a boycott on imports from Sao Tome and Principe.

Cacao pods. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

However, plantation owners in Saotome managed to increase exports to new chocolate producers in America.

By 1913, São Tomé and Príncipe became the world’s largest cacao producer, exporting more than 36,500 tons in a single year. But a host of factors soon brought about its downfall in 1935.

After independence in 1975, a lack of investment and collapsing global prices witnessed the gradual downturn in São Tome’s cacao industry.

After decadent growth between the early 1890s to 1975, Sao Tome has seen a remarkable resurgence, primarily driven by the efforts and enterprise of a few chocolate businessmen.

Claudio Corallo, an Italian coffee merchant, bought a plantation in 1997 and cultivated cacao. With the growing popularity of cacao, he was able to put Sao Tome back on the global chocolate map. Well-known chocolatier François Pralus came up with a chocolate bar featuring a map of Saotome.

Divine chocolate bars. Photo Credit: Unsplash

Ghanian company Divine launched a new range of organic, high-quality dark chocolate bars in 2018. On Principé Island, South African IT billionaire and astronaut Mark Shuttleworth’s HBD have invested in sustainable tourism and the cacao sector. Even cacao safaris are being organized.

The tiny economy of this island nation is dependent on exports of cacao at around the US $ 1.3 million (75% of total exports). From being a flag post for slavery and forced labor to a clean and modern producer of premium cacao, Sao Tome has come a long way.

Today, cacao is connected to everyone on the exotic islands in some way or the other. The challenge for the government is to maintain its exclusive quality and bet on cacao value-added products.

Also Read: Yuva Tourism to Reshape India’s Tourist Sector

Yuva Tourism to Reshape India’s Tourist Sector

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INDIA: India’s immense diversity presents a challenge not only due to its massive geography but also due to the cultural aspects. Along with this, it pose as a challenge to the foreign tourists and the domestic tourists (to a lesser extent). For example, Rajasthan may be an utter novelty to a foreign tourist as much to a domestic visitor from Kerala but will be less of a culture shock to the latter.

But India’s cultural diversity, historical richness, and civilizational heritage are also its biggest assets. The kind of eclectic cultural experience that India can provide a foreign tourist through the range and depth of its historical monuments, archaeological marvels, architectural gems, unparalleled natural beauty, and mindboggling customs, crafts, cuisines, etc, is simply unparalleled.

Loopholes in Indian travel industry

The obvious challenges faced by Indian tourism such as lack of insufficient infrastructure, connectivity, health, and logistics have been well documented and are being gradually addressed. India is on an unprecedented infrastructure push, which will cast an extremely positive shadow on the future growth of the Indian tourism sector.

No doubt, the creation of world-class tourism infrastructure and logistics across the country is a critical factor. However, there is another equally crucial aspect that continues to be woefully deficient – touristic services, safety, hygiene, and reliable and trained human resources to guide foreign tourists. It is not enough if the Taj Mahal or the Shore Temple is exquisite to the eye. The tourist would need the safety and the ambience of a comforting ecosystem to enjoy and savour them.

A foreigner’s first impression of a country is very important. The visitor should feel welcomed and enter into a comfortable environment. Rules should be applied without being aggressive. Service providers should be helpful without being intrusive, positive without being inquisitive, professional without being indifferent, and tidy without being flashy. Such values will come with the right training.

Measures taken by the Indian Ministry of Tourism

The recently announced decision of the Ministry of Tourism to launch the “Yuva Tourism” campaign holds high potential to harness, orient, and channelize the talent and energy of Indian youth towards constructive development of tourism in India.

As part of the AmritMahotsav celebration, National Tourism Clubs are being established in select schools across India. Some of the main objectives of this initiative are to develop and imbibe touristic interest and temper among students from an early age and educate them about the diverse culture and tourism potential of different regions of India

The need of the hour is to raise awareness among the youth on the need to conserve, protect and nurture our monuments. It also aims to instill in them the value of creating and maintaining the right ecosystem and cleanliness around our cultural assets. Exposure to best practices will lend an important perspective about requirements of safety, security, and comfort level for foreign tourists.

Our youth should appreciate the role of tourism in education. The Yuva Tourism campaign aims to create professionally trained service providers such as tour guides, transporters, tour operators, hoteliers, translators, etc, who will not only take pride in their vocations but also deliver quality services with integrity and proactivism.

Tourism service providers must understand the historical and cultural basis of our architectural assets. Professional training will sharpen and enhance their instinct for the conservation and promotion of our tourism sites.

The campaign will also introduce best tourism practices and instill physical and mental well-being through tourism and education. At the end of the day, it is about developing young ambassadors of Indian tourism.

After all, our national motto is “Atithi Devo Bhava“, meaning ‘Guest is God’. The campaign would equip our youth with a better appreciation of our cultural ethos and ensure that foreign tourist leaves the Indian shores with a piece of our heritage in their hearts.

The emergence of new COVID-19 variants will be attended by inevitable international travel curbs, which will keep international tourists away for quite some time. It is time to build a more resilient tourism economy post-COVID-19 through a digital transition and a shift to a greener tourism system.

In the absence of international tourists, it is therefore critical that attention is now diverted to the development of domestic tourism. All efforts should be targeted to encourage Indian tourists to undertake Bharat Darshans. A robust domestic tourist sector can soften the blow caused by the pandemic.

Also Read: Enthralling Southern Trail of Sao Tome

The Enthralling Southern Trail of Sao Tome

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SAO TOME AND PRINCIPE. Sao Tome: From exotic beaches to exquisite chocolate, the remote African island nation of São Tomé and Príncipe has attractions to rival the world’s best. The Southern part of Sao Tome is perhaps the most attractive and most visited part. The place is home to some of the iconic tourist landmarks in the whole island archipelago. 

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Roughly 75 kms from Sao Tome city and boasting of some of the best quality roads in all of this island, the Southern most town of Porto Alegre can be reached in less than 2 hours. 

But one would need a whole day to visit all the important tourist sites on the route. Driving on the smooth and well laid out motorway, one will pass through countless plantations of cocoa and plantains and thick bush country.

The drive on the Southern route is so relaxing that a bill board actually welcomes the tourist with the statement that one has entered a stress free zone. 

Billboard at the southern route. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The first point of touristic interest is an old abandoned hospital of Roca Agua Ize. The area was once the site of the biggest cocoa plantations of Sao Tome & Principe. 

A supposedly large well equipped hospital built here 100 years ago for the plantation workers and officials, sadly stands in ruins today, but converted into a museum. 

Roca Agua Ize. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Driving a few kilometers further south, there is the “Boca do Inferno” or the Hell’s Mouth, which is a beautiful natural cliff overlooking a rough and noisy ocean. The epithet is derived from the eerie howling sounds made by the strong waves incessantly pounding the rocks.

Boca Do Inferno. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The largest coastal town in the vicinity is São João dos Angolares. It is quite nondescript, but has a good restaurant and an eco-friendly lodge and a guesthouse right at the top of the hill overlooking the sea. 

Perhaps the most iconic landmark that has made Saotome famous is located 15 kms from the town of São João dos Angolares. The volcanic hill known as the Pico Cao Grande presents itself majestically across a 3 km stretch of thick bush country from the main road. 

The Great Dog Peak. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Also known as the Great Dog Peak, this volcanic natural structure, rises 2200 feet, challenging the hardiest of trekkers and adventurers. This unique natural skyscraper could be viewed from several vantage points. But in order to get closer and trek up to this structure, it would be better to hire the services of a professional guide (20 to 30 Euros). The trek up the peak may take an entire day through 3 kms of thick jungle from the motorway. 

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

After the special experience with the Pico Cao Grande, one cannot miss the cute and clean Cascata De Praia Pesqueria, a waterfall located a few kilometres further on the same road. This is also the place where the river meets the sea. This area is flanked by quaint fishing villages populated by few families.

Cascata De Praia Pesqueria. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj
Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The town of Port Alegro is the last town on the southern coast. Praia Inhame Eco Lodge is an impressive place to spend the night or even for a snack and drink. It is here that  hundreds of turtles lay their eggs on this beach here during the season, which is a sight to behold. 

The final and important dot on this Southern touristic trail is the ride to Rolas Island, where one can cross the line of equator. Saotome is one of the few places on earth located on the line of equator. The ride from the beach on the mainland to Rolas Islet can be made through the daily ferry (twice a day at 15 euros) organized by Pestana Resort or opt for small open fishing barges, which also return the same day.

The ride on the fishing barges can be rough and uncomfortable at times, depending on the currents or the weather. After reaching the Rolas Island, one needs to take a 20 minute trek to the Equator Mark. It is interesting that Point 0 zero degrees latitude is measured down in a nearby fishermen’s village on the same islet. 

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The entire trip from Saotome city to its Southern point is a fascinating and engrossing ride, with a lot to savour.

Also Read: The Astounding Beauty of Sao Tome

The Astounding Beauty of Sao Tome

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SAO TOME And PRINCIPE. Sao Tome: Sao Tome is one of the most enchanting places in the world. This remote twin-island nation lies adrift in the Gulf of Guinea, off Africa’s west coast. Its lushly forested volcanic peaks bustling with biodiversity is a home to around 30 endemic birds and dozens of other species. Due to this, it is known as the “African Galápagos”.

Around three to four kms drive away in any direction from buzzing downtown Sao Tome, one is suddenly closeted by thick green plantations of banana, coffee, cocoa and variety of fruits. The breathtaking city of Sao Tome is surrounded by dense jungles.

The innumerable water falls, bluish green hued beaches, clear streams, medicinal gardens, fruit farms, plantation museums, picturesque fishing villages and vantage viewpoints overlooking dense jungles are a sight for sore eyes.

The first point in the Central Highlands of the North is the enthralling and popular waterfalls, the Cascata de São Nicolau, which is accessible from the main road. The water falls from a height of 50 meters fed by perennial down streams.

The approach to the waterfalls can be a bit winding and bumpy, but the overlooking forests and the natural pool at the base of the falls, makes the visit extremely worthwhile.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

On the way, one can visit the ‘Coffee Museum’ and cocoa processing units that was established 100 years ago.

Cocoa seeds and farms. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Cascata de Praia Pesqueria, is where the river meets the sea. The beautiful and serene place is located in middle of a small fishermen village.

Cascata de Praia Pesqueria. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

First discovered around 1470, Sao Tome was not officially settled until the 1490s by Portuguese explorer Alvaro Caminha, who received the island as a land grant from the Portuguese Crown. Ananbo is where the first Portuguese explorer landed in Sao Tome and therefore holds historical significance. Approximately 30 km further on the northern tip, this beach is pretty and pristine.

Serene Blue Lagoon

The usually desolated Blue Lagoon or the Lago Azul, boasts of blue, clear and temperature perfect waters, making it an ideal spot for swimming. The beach throws up beautiful odd shaped and multi hued shiny pebbles.

Blue Lagoon. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj
Blue Lagoon. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj


Praia dos Tamarindos or Tamarind beach, on the Northern tip is probably among the top three beaches in Sao Tome.  The beach is usually frequented more by locals than foreign tourists. It is also a popular place where locals picnic, frolic and play soccer.

Praia dos Tamarindos or Tamarind beach. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The beach got its name due to the presence of large number of tamarind trees around the beach. 

The Obo Natural Park in the south of the Island, is an attractive natural, national park. Spread across some 235 square km, this wild park is covered with lush green cover, mangroves, swamps and Savannah grasslands. 

2 Obo
Tamarind trees. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

It is also adorned with  plenty of alluring waterfalls that cascade down the slopes of mountains and all the way to the black and white beaches.

7 Obo
Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

But the most gorgeous feature of Obo National Park is the landmark needle shaped volcanic mountain, the Pico Cao Grande. It is a steep volcanic mountain rising dramatically from the Park and amidst some really lush jungle greenery. Measured at about 370 metres, it looks like a head turning urban skyscraper.

Pico Cao Grande. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Another distinctive feature of the park is the diverse nature of flora with more 700 species. Comprising evergreen coniferous, pines, ferns and about 100 unique orchid species, the Natural Park is a virtual paradise for the fauna that thrives among this thickset green cover. Also the perfect habitat for more 234 bird species, making it the perfect spot for ornithologists. In fact this park has been designated as the second most important forest of biological interest in entire Africa.

5 Obo
Enthralling nature. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

There are several more hidden natural gems in Sao Tome that can bewitch even the most avid of travelers and adventurers. All one needs is stamina, zest and determination to enjoy the raw beauty of this island.

Also Read: Travel Trends – Travelers Love Long Weekends

The Influence of Portuguese Culture on Goa And Sao Tome

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SAO TOME: Though separated by several thousand miles and many oceans, the Democratic Republic of São Tome and Principe (island nation off the Gulf of Guinea, West Africa) and the Indian State of Goa, have many things in common. It may seem illogical to compare a country with a province, but having visited or stayed at both these places, I could not let this opportunity pass. Both are located on the Western coasts of their respective regions. The countries were Portuguese colonies at almost the same point in history (Saotome:1470 & Goa:1511). Both broke free from their colonial bondages around the same time (Sao Tome in 1975 & Goa in 1961)

Both endured a cruel and painful past under colonial rule. In the case of Sao Tome, it was plagued by the evils of the slave trade, waves of social unrest, and economic instability throughout the 19th and 20th centuries.

Although slavery in Portuguese colonies was officially abolished in 1876, plantation workers in Sao Tome continued to be subjected to forced paid labor. Dissatisfaction with working conditions led to unrest by the native Forros, which heralded the beginning of the freedom struggle for Sao Tome.

Goa too was subject to aggressive religious conversion programs by the colonizers on the native Goan population comprising Hindus, Muslims, and others, leading to large-scale violence, deaths, and displacements. 

Portuguese is spoken in both places and both have a sizeable Christian population. In Sao Tome, 95 percent of the population is Christian. More than 80 percent of São Toméans are Roman Catholics, 15 percents are protestants, and the rest are other faiths. Portuguese is the lingua franca of Sao Tome. But in the case of Goa, only 25 percent of the population are Catholics and Portuguese speakers are limited to the older generation.

São Tomé and Goa are connected to Saint Thomas but in different ways. Sao Tome is named after Saint Thomas because Portuguese explorers discovered the then-uninhabited island on 21 December around 1470, which is St Feast Day or St. Thomas day. But actually, Sao Tome celebrates Feast Day on 3 July so that St Thomas Day does not coincide with Advent. In Goa, the feast is celebrated on the 2nd Saturday after Easter

Celebration of Feast Day in Sao Tome. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The Portuguese conquest of Goa happened when Afonso de Albuquerque captured it in 1510. But Goa was influenced by St. Thomas several centuries before its colonization by the Portuguese. St. Thomas Apostle landed on the Kerala coast in AD 52 and died in Madras, South India, in AD 72

Incidentally, the San Thome Cathedral built by the Portuguese in 1523 on top of St. Thomas Mount in Chennai, India, is named after Saint Thomas. He is said to have baptized several people, which lead to the creation of Saint Thomas Christians. He is often regarded as the Patron Saint of India, and the name Thoma remains quite popular among Saint Thomas Christians of India, including Goa.

However, the closest affinity between Sao Tome and Goa is Portuguese architecture. Goa is probably the only state in India that has better maintained the 17th-century Portuguese mansions, heritage houses, and churches, than any other part of India. 

Sao Tome is littered with Portuguese-style villas, which have been largely well maintained. Some of them have been converted into cafés, commercial houses, coffee or cocoa outlets, with the rest occupied by elite Sao Tome families.

Both boast of some of the oldest and sacred Catholic churches and Chapels built by the Portuguese. Goa proudly houses the ‘Fontainhas and Sao Tome’, which is a beautiful Latin Quarter located in Panaji. Developed on a piece of real estate by a Goan in the 18th century, this designated heritage site is renowned for its lingering presence of typical Portuguese-style houses.  

In Sao Tome, the iconic Nossa Senhora da Graça (Our Lady of Grace) Chapel stands majestically in the center of the city. Built and rebuilt over the course of 400 years between 1576 and 1958, this impressive cathedral effectively demarcates the business part of the city from its administrative areas.

Sao Tome. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The Our Lady of Conception Church, (Church of the Conception), with a bright red façade, is another important Catholic church in the center of Sao Tome. And so too is the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception in Panaji, which is perhaps the most photographed church in Goa.

Goa Chapel. Photo Credit: Google Images

It may interest readers in Sao Tome that the famous ‘Capela de Sao Tome’ (or St. Thomas Chapel) is situated on a street called the Rua de Sao Tome in Goa. Another point of interest for people in Sao Tome is that the St. Thomas the Apostle Aldone Church built-in 1596 in Goa is also known as ‘Sao Tome Igreja em Aldona, Goa’. Both these Portuguese-style cathedrals in Goa still stand in all their past glory.

I am not sure if Sao Tome and Goa are bitten by a Portuguese fetish to splash hues of bright red, blue, yellow, purple, or green across their houses or buildings, but they are everywhere in both places.

Goan building. Photo Credit: Google Images
Sao Tome building. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Another common denominator is the beautiful beaches that hog the coastlines of these two places. Sao Tome beaches are blue, pristine, raw and so ubiquitous that the locals take them for granted. Goanese beaches are balmy, sun-kissed, and polished.

Raw Sao Tome. Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Such similarities notwithstanding, Goa though has a richer colonial history than Sao Tome. For centuries, it was considered the Rome of the Orient and was the headquarters of the Catholic Church in the Orient. The tomb of Francis Xavier, who died in 1552, lies in the old City of Goa (Velha Goa). Vasco da Gama died in Goa on Christmas night. 

Also Read: Colonial Splendour of Sao Tome

Goa was among a select set of colonies permitted to send representatives to the Portuguese parliament, the Cortes, which Sao Tome was not.

But what distinguishes the two places is the fact that Sao Tome is unheard, untouched, and remote, while Goa is already a star destination point on the global tourism map, drawing millions each year.

Colonial Splendour of Sao Tome

SAO TOME: The second smallest African state of Sao Tome and Principe punches way above its weight when it comes to natural beauty. But its unsullied beauty is matched by an equally charming colonial landscape.

Sao Tome was uninhabited till the Portuguese set foot around 1470. They overcame the remoteness of the islands by attracting settlers from Portugal. Soon they realized the commercial potential of the islands and promoted the growth of sugar cane plantations. By the middle of the 16th century, the island became Africa’s top sugar exporter. From 1522 onwards, the Portuguese crown was administering the islands.

Soon Sao Tome’s sugar economy became unsustainable due to competition from nearby countries. But the Portuguese settlers turned to cocoa and developed the plantations to make Sao Tome one of the largest producers of cocoa in the world. But in doing so, they made these islands into a slave trade hub, which is perhaps the darkest aspect of its history. Between the 1500s till Sao Tome got independence in 1975, the Portuguese left a deep imprint of their architecture and culture on these islands, which is quite visible today.

Portuguese colonial architecture

Tell-tale evidence of Portuguese architecture is what is today the Presidential Palace (Palácio Presidencial de São Tomé e Príncipe, also known as Palácio do Povo) or the official residence of the President of the Republic of Sao Tome and Principe. Built-in the 19th century, the palace housed the residence of the Governor of Portuguese Sao Tome and Principe.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

This double-storied palace is a large, L-shaped mansion with a rose-pink facade and surrounded by pink concrete columns and a high iron fence with a closely guarded entrance. Its other neoclassical elements include window ornamentation, columns along the spans of the building, and a grand main staircase at the entrance.

The beautiful Nossa Senhora da Graça (Our Lady of Grace) is situated right across the Presidential Palace and is a popular spot for Sao Tomeans. The cathedral is known to be the oldest in Sub-Saharan Africa.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Another typical piece of Portuguese architecture is the square-shaped Fort Sao Sebastio, which is strikingly cream-colored. A stone carving near the gate states that it was built in 1576 as a defense primarily against the Dutch armies. Ironically, history states that the fort was occupied by the Dutch in 1641. The Portuguese managed to recapture it after 3 years. 

Also Read: Idyllic Sao Tome

The fort houses the Sao Tome and Principe Museums. The Sao Tome Museum displays the fascinating saga of the decline of the sugarcane cycle of the 16th century till the origins of cocoa production. Other intriguing things are the displays of sacred art and ethnic wear.  It also houses a sandstone sculpture of the Virgin and Jesus, along with the island´s female patron saint Sant’Ana.

The beach near the Fort is fierce and the waves can hit you as you stand on the edge at any time of the day.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

The city centre simply oozes colonial charm. The city has still retained 16th and 17th-century Portuguese architecture. The old colonial buildings with rounded balconies and high arched windows are being used as offices, shops, pharmacies, bakeries, commercial institutions, etc. 

But many of these constructs have been partially restored from the insides and colorfully dressed in bright colors on the outside.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Ambling across the endless lanes and gullies, I felt mentally transported to another period in time. The captivating old-world charm of the colonial structures of Sao Tome city accompanies you everywhere. Street vendors who have set up shop outside these buildings, go about their business quite oblivious to the history and colorful setting.

Another striking example of Portuguese architecture is an impressive building that used to house an old cocoa processing (below) two centuries ago. This building has since been refurbished and used as a convention centre.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Cute but old-looking villas dot the coastal roads of Sao Tome, which represents the relatively upscaled part of the city. Owned previously by the Portuguese settlers, today they are either owned by the elite city dwellers or converted into homestays or art galleries, or retail chocolate outlets.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

This overlooked African island nation is certainly on the up on the world tourism map. One needs to look beyond the obvious natural charm of these special islands and enjoy the colonial splendour that is hidden inside its capital city.

Idyllic Sao Tome

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SAO TOME: In many ways, Sao Tome is poetry in slow motion and a breath of fresh air. There is nothing cosmetic about the place. The plethora of epithets used to describe Sao Tome is certainly no exaggeration. Unspoilt, laid back, idyllic, untouched, magical, dramatic landscapes, pristine, colonial charm – they all fit the bill.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Landing in Sao Tome was like setting foot into some nature documentary. Driving from the airport into the city, the natural beauty becomes immediately evident. Along the coastal drive, one can see quaint fishing villages, glorious beaches lined with palm trees, canoes, and luscious landscapes.  

The outskirts of the city are dressed up in green blankets of banana and cocoa plantations. Nature is bountiful here. Cashew trees grow nonchalantly across the city. So too pomegranate, guava, plantain, mango, and papaya trees. Where ever I went, I was not able to avoid a peek of the ocean or mountain or a lush cocoa farm.

The second smallest country in Africa, after Seychelles, the twin islands of Sao Tome & Principe straddle the Equator off the coast of the Gulf of Guinea. They were uninhabited until the Portuguese discovered them in 1485. They wanted to cultivate sugarcane because of which Sao Tome became an outpost of the slave trade. Jewish children from the Iberian Peninsula and nearby Congo became the source of slave plantation workers. 

Sao Tome: The Picturesque Island

Sao Tome is a culturally diverse country. Though stratified by ethnic groups and social status, Sao Tomeans are largely united in their way of life. Sao Tome and Principe’s constitution provides for freedom of religion. The population is predominantly Christian (80% Catholics and 15% Protestants). 

Sao Tomeans trace their ancestry to Africa and Portugal. Portuguese is the main spoken language, but I was pleasantly surprised to encounter many English-speaking Sao Tomeans. Sao Tome is somewhat un-African. For one thing, the only noise pollution comes from the constant chirping of birds and the incessant sound of waves across the city. The refreshing smell of the sea follows you. 

Daily life in Sao Tome is really ‘leve leve’, meaning ‘take it easy. A large billboard at the airport reminds visitors to take it easy. For most of us who are used to the hustle-bustle of modern city life and the pressure of today’s work culture, it does take some adjusting.

There is no such thing as a traffic jam in the city. During so-called peak hours, the main thorough fare has only a handful of cars and motorbikes. With no traffic lights, one can get by seamlessly and quickly without using the horn. 

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Though Sao Tome became an independent country in 1975, it still retains much of the 16th-century colonial architecture. As you amble into the city center, one cannot but be charmed by the tropical simplicity of this African city. What is captivating are the faded, yet alluring colonial splendor of old colonial buildings with carved wooden wraparound balconies, arched windows, balustrades – many of which have been restored in bright vibrant colors. 

Portuguese architecture in Sao Tome

Portuguese style colonial tiled houses dot the coastline. It may not be uncommon for many residents, including me, to wake up to the sounds of waves lapping the shoreline.

The city center is the only place where there is a mild buzz. Teenagers sporting caps and nicely suited white-collar workers mingle together. Healthy looking and chirpy school children with braided hair can be seen buying stuff from street vendors and mothers with babies slung behind their backs walking with unhurried languid ease. Bright yellow taxis jostle for space with motorbikes and shabby-looking jeeps. Moneychangers and telephone card sellers squat on street corners, while shoppers haggle with a variety of street vendors. It is a common sight to see women selling huge tuna fish in cane baskets.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

Despite their modest means, crime is low in the city. Sao Tomeans are very unassuming, uncomplicated, amiable, and respectful. They spontaneously greet everyone in the street with a wave of their hand or head or greet in Portuguese. The men and women look pleasant and agile in their T-Shirts, shorts, and skirts. Very few dress formally.

Photo Credit: Raghu Gururaj

What is noticeable is the exceptionally high skill level of their carpenters, electricians, gardeners, painters, and those in other vocations. The city has several tiny shops and galleries that display exquisite traditional wood carvings, mask making, jewelry from seashells, paintings, and traditional ornaments.

Though Sao Tome depends heavily on external aid, it enjoys high social indicators. At 71 years, STP’s life expectancy is higher than its neighbors.  The literacy rate is 93%, while 97% of its population has access to improved water sources. 87% of its urban populace has access to electricity. It is another matter that the whole country runs on a giant generator.

Also Read: MEA Appoints Raghu Gururaj As The Next Ambassador To Sao Tome and Principe

The economy of Sao Tome is heavily dependent on agricultural exports and tourism.  Despite its undeniable appeal as a tourist destination, Sao Tome and Principe remain one of the world’s least-visited countries.  This can be attributed to its remote location, lack of connectivity, and visibility. But if you are looking to balance your vital health indicators and doshas, Sao Tome is the place to be.